Café Balli has anchored the Cánovas corner of Almirante Cadarso and Conde de Altea since 2002, morphing from morning café into one of the area's liveliest evening bars. Spread over two floors plus a big terrace, it draws a mixed crowd of locals and visitors for tardeo gin-tonics that roll into late-night drinks and dancing. Free entry and long hours make it the neighbourhood's default meeting point.